17 March 2020 | Medium
Mannasama (“mann al-sama”, meaning “manna from heaven”), is an Iraqi dessert made of manna, the food of God cited in all three monotheistic religions.
Mannasama (“mann al-sama”, meaning “manna from heaven”), or gazo as it is known in Northern Iraq, is a dessert made of manna, the food of God cited in the texts of all three monotheistic religions.
In the Old Testament, manna is described as being “a fine, flake-like thing” like the frost on the ground, arriving with the dew during the night. It is thought manna comes from the sap or lichen of a tree native to the region, likely the tamarix aphylla. The Israelites were instructed to make manna into bread on the Sabbath, and it is featured in Passover Seder meals to this day.
In the Bible, the Jews refer to manna given to them by Moses as a sign of God’s promised covenant, while Jesus asserts that manna is from God and not from Moses. Manna later provides impetus for the “Bread of Life” discourse, when Jesus offers “living bread”, for whoever ate bread in memory of Him would never spiritually die.
In the Quran, the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) refers to “the manna which Allah (God) sent to the people of Israel through Moses.”
Today, manna is most commonly referred to in the context of mannasama, the dessert native to Iraq. In a country as divided as Iraq, one pauses to consider the unity this mildly sweet treat inspires. It is by far the most exotic dessert this native Texan writer has ever tasted in her globetrotting life.
Ona June 2019 trip to an international humanitarian compound in Kirkuk, Iraq, my gracious host Arjun arranged an Eid dinner with local and international staff — a rare opportunity to meet those living in this microcosm of Iraq — a city where Arabs, Turkmen, Kurds and Christian Chaldeans intermingle, often with tension.
When the savory portion of the bountiful dinner concluded, all eyes drifted to the dessert table.
“Have you ever tried mannasama?” Arjun asked me.
I replied with a raised eyebrow, curiosity piqued.
“It’s the most delicious thing you could ever put in your mouth. It has an indescribable flavor…the texture…” my friend Arjun looked to his Italian colleague Francesco, imploring him to explain further.
Francesco looked at me timidly, starting with, “It’s like a cloud of…the most heavenly…” his eyes darted around to other male colleagues around the table.
“What could it taste like?” I thought, “To make these gentlemen blush so?”
“Let’s call Ekrem!” said Arjun, desperately trying to find someone removed from the table to explain the secret of manna and why it had cast such a spell on locals and expats alike.
Ekrem, an Iraqi Turkmen from Kirkuk, poetically explained in broken English how manna descended from heaven and tastes like the clouds; its subtle sweetness barely grazing your tongue before dissipating into your soul.
Those around the table eagerly concurred. All Iraqis — Arabs, Turkmen, Kurds, Chaldeans — love this dessert.
Mannasama has two variations; a confectionery delight with pistachio sold in the main cities, and a traditional variation with walnuts, dusted in flour instead of sugar. Manna is a special kind of weed, Ekrem concluded.
“Weed?” inquired Arjun.
“No wonder it’s so popular,” I remarked sarcastically.
“Whatever it is,” said Arjun, “everyone in Iraq agrees it’s the most heavenly dessert on earth.”
Manna at Towfiq Halwachy confectionary in Sulaymaniyah, Iraq — June 2019.
The Tofiq Halwachy confectionary in Sulaymaniyah, Iraq began distributing mannasama in Germany in 2019. You may also find mannasama in the United States by getting in touch with the author via evinashley.com.
Names have been changed.
Recipe for Mannasama
SERVINGS: MAKES 30–60 NOUGATS
Recipe adapted from Delights from the Garden of Eden by Nawal Nasrallah, as posted in Edible Houston, November 2019.
½ cup granulated sugar — 1 cup brown sugar, firmly packed — ⅓ cup water (boiling) — 1 teaspoon butter — 1 teaspoon vanilla extract — ¼ teaspoon salt — ¼ cup water — 2 egg whites — 1 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom — ¼ cup (2 ounces or 50 grams) butter — 1½ cups toasted nuts (pistachios, walnuts, almonds or pecans) — 2 tablespoons rose water (optional) — Flour
*Note: There is no manna in this recipe (as most people do not have access to actual manna at their local supermarket), but the recipe provides an idea of what mannasama tastes like, with all other ingredients included. Use your imagination to round out the flavor!
Dissolve the sugars in boiling water with butter and vanilla in a shallow pot, stirring from time to time. Let a thick syrup form (to test it, place a drop in a glass of water; a ball should form).
While the syrup is cooking, whip the egg whites until firm. Pour ¼ of the syrup over the egg whites and continue whipping. Add the rest of the syrup to the egg whites and keep whipping.
Fold the cardamom, butter, nuts and rose water, if preferred, into the mixture.
Spread the nougat mixture into a flat pan that is greased and floured. Leave standing (not in the fridge) for 12 hours or longer.
Cut into small squares; dip in flour to keep them from sticking. The soft nougat will keep for days in a cool place. Traditional mannasama is covered in flour and presented in a wooden box.